Long before the hum of electric motors, the region of Hitachi and Ota was the domain of the powerful Satake clan. From their formidable hilltop fortress, Ota Castle, they ruled for centuries. This story uncovers the dramatic history of the Satake clan, their rise to power during the turbulent Sengoku period, and their eventual, forced relocation, which reshaped the destiny of the entire region.
Long before the first train lines scored the land, the hills of Hitachi belonged to the Satake clan. From their fortress at Ota, perched over the landscape, they had commanded the province for centuries, a lineage stretching back to the great Minamoto warriors. By the turbulent 16th century, the era of warring states, the lord of Ota Castle was Satake Yoshishige, a man whose ferocity in battle earned him a name whispered with a mix of terror and awe: *Oni Yoshishige*—the Devil Yoshishige. Yoshishige was a man forged by his time. He slept on a thin mat, scorning the comfort of a futon, as if to keep the hardened edge of a perpetual campaigner. And he needed it. To the south, the powerful Hojo clan were a rising tide, their ambition threatening to swallow the whole of the Kanto region. Yoshishige met them head-on. At the Battle of Numajiri, his 20,000 soldiers faced a Hojo army four times their size. But the Satake had a surprise: more than 8,000 matchlock guns, a shocking concentration of modern firepower that helped win the day. Through shrewd alliances and brutal force, Yoshishige consolidated his grip on Hitachi, unifying the fractious local clans under his family’s five-boned fan crest. In 1589, he passed official leadership to his eldest son, Yoshinobu, a young man who had grown up in a world defined by his father’s wars. A year later, the great unifier Toyotomi Hideyoshi laid siege to the Hojo at Odawara, and the Satake clan pledged their loyalty. For his service, Yoshinobu was confirmed as master of Hitachi, his domain assessed at a massive 545,000 *koku*—a measure of wealth and power that placed the Satake among the most important clans in the land. From the walls of Ota Castle, it must have seemed their ascent was unstoppable.
The balance of power in Japan was a fragile thing, and in 1598, it shattered. Toyotomi Hideyoshi died, leaving a child heir and a council of regents simmering with ambition. The most powerful of them, Tokugawa Ieyasu, began to make his move. The realm split, lords everywhere forced to choose a side: Ieyasu’s Eastern Army, or the Western Army loyal to the Toyotomi heir, led by the brilliant administrator Ishida Mitsunari. For Satake Yoshinobu, the choice was agonizing. He had a deep and genuine friendship with Mitsunari, the man who had championed his cause at Hideyoshi’s court. He had even signed a secret pact with the Uesugi clan, key allies of the Western Army. But his father, the old devil Yoshishige, saw the currents of power differently. He argued forcefully for joining Ieyasu, convinced the future shogun was the only man who could bring true order to the land. The clan was paralyzed by indecision. As Ieyasu marched his armies west toward the decisive confrontation at Sekigahara, he ordered the Satake to attack the Uesugi in the north. Yoshinobu hesitated. He sent messages to the Uesugi, then at the last minute, made a show of preparing to join Tokugawa. In the end, he did nothing. While the fate of Japan was decided in a storm of steel and blood on a misty field in central Japan, the Satake army sat idle. Ieyasu’s victory at Sekigahara was total. The lords who had opposed him were crushed. Those who had fought for him were rewarded. And for those, like the Satake, who had gambled on ambiguity, there was a reckoning.
The news of Ieyasu’s victory arrived at Ota Castle like a death sentence. The punishment was severe, but not total. Perhaps out of respect for old Yoshishige's reputation, or through his father's desperate intercession, Yoshinobu was spared execution. But the Satake were to be stripped of their ancestral home. Their vast income was slashed by more than half, to just 200,000 *koku*. And they were being moved. In 1602, the order came down: the entire clan was to relocate to Kubota, a remote and much smaller domain in the cold, northern province of Dewa. The land they were being sent to was the home of the Akita clan. In a final twist of irony, the Akita, who had sided with Ieyasu, were ordered to move to a fief carved from the Satake's old lands in Hitachi. One clan’s loss was another’s gain. The journey north was the end of a world. For 400 years, the Satake had been the lords of Hitachi. Their story was written in the stones of Ota Castle, in the river valleys and rice fields they had fought for and defended. Now, they were leaving it forever. Yoshinobu, the young lord whose indecision had cost them everything, led his retainers and their families away from the only home they had ever known. They arrived in the north not as conquerors, but as exiles, taking up residence in the modest Tsuchizaki Castle before building a new castle, Kubota, on a hill called Shinmeiyama. The moon-and-fan crest flew over a new domain, in a new land, under a new shogun. The last lord of Ota Castle had become the first lord of Akita, a ruler in a distant province, haunted by the ghost of a lost kingdom.